Queenstown and Strahan couldn't be more different. Both are isolated on the west coast. Both have had their heydays and both are now important parts of Tasmania's tourist route.
Queenstown is unashamedly a mining town, from its inception and still now. Initially there was a small gold rush and then vast deposits of copper were found. There is still a tall chimney visible but one hundred years ago there were eleven, all spewing poisonous clouds of choking pollution into the air and, with acid rain, into the soil and rivers. In contrast to the amazing temperate rainforests all around, the mountains are totally bare and will probably take thousands of years to regenerate. The rivers are yellow and thick with sediment and just beginning to flow again after many years. Someone told me that a couple of years ago you could throw a stone into the water and it wouldn't sink!
The railway was the only way in to the town initially and it took years to build, hacked from thick virgin forest by hand. Cuttings were gouged into the mountains and amazingly intricate bridges built to support the rail line. When the inclines were too steep, a rack and pinion track was built with cogs on the rail meshing with cogs on the engines to drag the train up and down the mountains. This is now a daily tourist train but in older times it was the only contact with the coast and the only way to get the copper to the coast at Strahan. I took lots of train photos for the boys. The scenery was too difficult to capture.
Strahan is also isolated and until quite recently the only access was by sea, with a return trip to Hobart or Melbourne taking weeks or months depending on the weather. Strahan has managed to escape most of the devastation of the mining. Thanks to strong environmental lobbies, the Gordon River is a world heritage area and the cruises on the river show the wonderful wilderness at its best. A six hour trip yesterday flew by. Again I didn't take many photos because it was so wide and impressive that it was impossible to record.
Marilyn and Paul were on the train trip with me on Monday. I could have missed them all together except that she got into the wrong carriage and saw me sitting there. Praise the Lord for the family sense of direction! I parked with them and with Nancy and Geoff and friends Jane and Lindsay at Strahan the past two nights. Last night we had some wonderful fresh salmon - and a care package for tonight.
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