Fresh Eyre and Sunshine - the Eyre Peninsula

 As I drove along some long empty roads in the last few days, it struck me how deserted they are and how isolated a driver can be. In some cases it was almost an hour before I saw a vehicle approaching. In my best Kath and Kim impersonation, I wanted to call out ‘Look at moi, look at moi’, wave hysterically and toss streamers or balloons from the car. But what did I do? I raised an index finger laconically from the steering wheel and received a similar acknowledgement from the other driver. In seconds we were out of sight of each other, facing the deserted road again. Contact made! It can be interesting. If someone doesn't wave, I tend not to wave to the next driver who invariably does. So I get back into the swing, waving to  the next car who may or may not acknowledge me. I think there should be a rule that if you are driving east or north, you should raise the index finger first. That frees up the decision making for those travelling west or south.

One of the challenges of living cheaply on the road is finding a good camping site. On my way east from Streaky Bay I detoured twice to look at bush camping. On one road the corrugations were so bad that the fillings dropped out of my teeth before I hit the sandy stretch where I slewed around so wildly that somehow the fillings got thrown back into place. I gave up before I got to the camping spot. (I should have read my Camps book more carefully and I would have known that there is a world of difference between a camp spot and a camp ground.) The next spot I managed to get to but found three small turn-out areas. There were two vans in one, and nothing and nobody else in sight. I gave this one a miss too.

 The previous night I had had a similar experience. I had my Camps Australia book and found what seemed like a good spot a few kilometres south of Streaky Bay. I followed the signs, found a small settlement but with no sign of the toilets and showers promised in the book. Going on a bit, finally I found the sign to the bay I was looking for.  The road was an adventure in itself. Occasionally the track divided into two.  The one I took invariable ended in a soft sandy bog or a washout and I had to reverse to try the other. I don't often (I should say, I don't always) talk to myself but I was questioning my wisdom for quite a while before I had the sense to turn around. Two other tracks failed to take me to a camping area. Then, just as I was about to give up and head for the town again, I saw two vans parked  just off the road and there it was, the sign saying this was free camping. When I went to the other drivers and inquired where I should get my certificate for finding the place, it turned out that they were also expecting some reward. Two other rigs arrived shortly and we had quite a comfortable stay. There was a toilet, a hybrid which I have got used to. There was a shower, a hose hanging under an almost empty tank. There was also a great sense of camaradie as we all set up and then shared a drink. The view along the way had been worth detouring for but it took a while before peace of mind kicked in.

Elliston Child Care Centre

Along this stretch of the road, there are really very few camping grounds (as distinct from camping spots) so I have been forced into a caravan park for three nights. As it happens, it is one of the few that I have seen that caters for solo travellers. At $20 a night, it is not much more than some of the camping spots which often charge $10 plus a permit for camping in a national park or conservation area.

 I am in Elliston which calls itself the Salmon Capital of Australia. It certainly seems to be a fisherman's paradise as most campers here come just for the fishing. They go out for a couple of hours and come back with a dozen or so fish, many of which they give away so they can make room in their fridge for the ones they are going to catch tomorrow. 


I stood on the jetty for ages waiting to see a small penguin that people had told me about. Then I thought I saw it on the rocks and watched intently for ages so that I'd know when it was swimming towards me for a photo. But when it flapped  its wings and flew off, I gave up on it! Who wants a flying penguin! I went for a drive along the cliffs to look at some sculptures which survive the ravages of the wind and rain with varying degrees of success. Apparently I was too early for this year's new sculptures but it was interesting to see the variety of subjects covered. If it doesn't already exist, there should be a law, The Travellers' Law of Local Events and Exhibitions i.e. it happened last week or it won't happen till the day after you leave!

Yesterday my neighbour Marco had been fishing with his young son and, after he had cleaned and filleted his fish, gave me a few fillets of either whiting or tommy ruffs. I am not sure what I had as I have been checking with a few of the fisher folk as they cleaned their catch and the fish look the same to me. I had assumed they were whiting because of the size. Last night I went to the bbq area and cooked them in breadcrumbs. Lovely! I had a few chats with two older fellows in a tent on the other side of me. I was trying to get a peek into their tent to check on the sleeping arrangements as they seemed to disappear into their tent early in the night. However today one of them managed to drop the phrase 'My wife and I' into the conversation about every two minutes of so. Perhaps he could read my mind. This evening I've had happy hour with three groups who have just arrived for up to six weeks camping and fishing. It was probably a good time to meet with them as they will be a tight knit community within a few days, as long time residents.

One lazy soul, thirty steps down to the lookout

Two hardy souls part way down the 284 steps

This is a very quiet little town probably made up equally of residents and campers as both caravan parks are apparently popular for most of the year. There is the usual bakery and cafe, an IGA and not much else. The past two days I have just walked close to home. Today I did the cliff top drive to look at sculptures. These are replaced regularly as most things don't survive nature's force for long. I also went to Lock's Well, the main feature of which is a 284 step staircase to the beach. I could have camped there free as there are two vans that have been there for a fortnight as well a few that have come and gone.

Fundamental Facts and Figures. Financial Freedom or Fiscal Foolishness?

Centrelink in its wisdom has decreed that a single pensioner on a full pension can survive on $48 a day. Toss in rent assistance and utilities allowances and we have the grand total of $60 a day. But I have an extra stash. The Canadian government generously gives me a monthly payment for the two years I worked there. By the time Canada takes its tax and Australia factors it into my income, I now have the princely sum of $64 a day to fund my travel – which actually doesn’t sound too bad.  For the moment I ignore the fact that I am still paying my rent weekly, registration and insurances continue and regular bills still drop into my letter box at home and I take my internet connection with me.  So $64 x 30 days =  $1920 a month. I am happily underestimating but I will take $600 off that for rent and home expenses so that leaves me $1320. Divide that by 30 days and I have $44 a day – just about what Centrelink thinks I need!

 But I’ve been keeping a travel diary and I know it is costing me about $2000 a month. Divide that by 30 and that tells me I am spending about $70 a day.  I can manage that. I have a small allocated pension from my superannuation that the government obligingly says I can keep for myself, so in the short term, I can cover my travel at the rate I am spending. Well, I think I can! I’m not much good at figures but I think I am under control. If you are good with numbers, check out my reasoning and tell me if I have it right – but not till I get home. I don’t want to get nervous about finances – and it won’t change what I am doing and how I am doing it.

At home I can keep within a budget but it is a bit harder on the road. There is no point in travelling and not being able to stop and see things, and a lot of places have admission fees.  Even if a donation is expected, you are told what do donate – a gold coin, a small gold coin, a folded note. Travelling alone also means I have to go out of my way sometimes to interact with people or I’d go crazy. I am happy to have a coffee or stop for a light lunch just for human contact. If I also eat breakfast and dinner and buy an occasional bottle of wine and nibblies for happy hour, I may average up to $20 a day on food – more than I’d spend at home but not unreasonable.   It costs $70 to fill the car with fuel. My one night at a motel cost $80. Caravan parks average about $30. National parks and cheap sites are between $5 and $15. Roadside stops are free – but often difficult to find one that seems safe, especially on the mainland. Tasmania had more freebies.

Going back to my $70 a day, I have plenty of choices. I can fill the car and drive a shortish distance, stay free on the side of the road or in a reserve and eat for two days. I can stay in a caravan park for two days and not move the car. I can stay cheap and eat for a few days if I am not driving far. I can do a four hour drive which takes virtually a full tank of fuel but neither sleep nor eat that day. There are lots of wonderful combinations that I have already enjoyed and others that I may have experienced without knowing it! Of course, it is not so cut and dried. Sometimes I spend a couple of hundred dollars then nothing at all for days. $70 is just an average but I thought the options were interesting. Who knows, the figures may even add up!!  I have often been told my logic is flawed and I know my maths is questionable but I still have fuel in the car and cash in my pocket. Seems okay to me!

1500 Hits

Thank you to all my faithful followers who have chalked up 1500 hits to my blog. I think I have finally got everything up to date but will check again right from the beginning. I expect to be sitting around for a few days so, as long as I have internet coverage, I'll check all my blogs. I have just got to the coast again in time for wet weather to start. Since leaving Adelaide, I have overnighted at Dublin beach and Port Augusta (both free camps) and am now moving down the Eyre Peninsula in the rain.


I know when to come in out of the rain. It is bucketing down, almost like a north Queensland downpour. Tonight I am staying at a motel in Tumby Bay. I have showered (and after two days, I really needed that), washed my hair, rinsed out some clothes and turned the heater on in the bathroom to dry them. I have the TV on in the sitting room. The owner put it on for me, so I've just turned off the sound and will turn it up for the news and weather - saves remembering what to do! I've sent off some emails, had a coffee and read a bit of my book. Having updated this blog and checked the new photo of Oscar on Facebook, I will put my feet up and doze. Life is tough!!

Adelaide

University Building

I have just moved on from Adelaide - too busy while I was there to write. I had planned to stay at Brownhill Caravan Park as there is no free camping near the city. I was told there was a bus stop close by. I think that person must be a long range hiker! The bus stop was at least a kilometre from the park office and another km at least from the unpowered sites. As I was planning to visit some Toastmasters clubs and get back late at night, I didn't appreciate the thought of that walk in the dark at night.

I found the closest park to town, Levi park. I don't expect city caravan parks to be cheap so wasn't surprised to have to pay $35 a night. I always ask for a solo's rate and occasionally I get a slight reduction. This time I had to pay full price, the same as a couple so made sure that I at least had a hot shower night and morning to get some value from my tariff. As it happened I had a good spot among the tent sites at the back of the park with the River Torrens trickling by in the gully below. At the front gate, less than 200m from my van was a bus to the city, free between 9.30am and 3pm for old folk!

 

Catholic Cathedral

Now, 9.30 seems a respectable hour to go into the city but of course I had to pay to come home. During the day I was able to hop on and off buses and trams and see most of the city. I did actually walk the 3.5km city scenic circuit at least once and covered a lot of ground in the shopping malls, especially the Rundle Mall and the Central markets. There was plenty happening in the city as it is still school holidays and the weather was very enticing for tourists.

Mary MacKillop
 at Adelaide Cathedral

Rundle Mall

Court House

Part of University of Adelaide

The Intercontinental Hotel
where I didn't stay!

Railway Station and Casino

One day I jumped a tram and spent a few hours at Glenelg, the closest beach. It is very much holiday oriented with lots of kids activities, water sports and food outlets. A tram arrives from the city every 15 minutes and continues almost to the jetty. The weather was fine and hot and a walk on the jetty was refreshing. I shouted myself to a prawn skewer for lunch.

I managed to fit in two Toastmasters meetings in my three nights in Adelaide. Both were right in town and I asked someone to drop me back at my bus stop afterwards. There are dozens of bus stops and I hopped off anywhere along the way to town. To return in the dark, I only knew the one outside the railway station, so I used that to be sure I'd get home. I enjoyed both meetings and was lucky enough to be put on the program for both. What surprised me was the fact that, with a couple of notable exceptions, I had to introduce myself to the members as they did not approach me with a welcome. Are my clubs like that? I don't think so but will really have to look at guests welcomes when I get home. It might be time to have a Mystery Toastmaster again - with a fine for anyone who didn't greet that person during the night. The Mystery Toastmaster could be a member or guest, just to remind members that we are in the business of communication - with members and with potential members and guests.

The other important business in Adelaide was to see a physiotherapist. I must have poor driving posture as I waas very stiff and sore and every muscle was tight. I went to a physio centre on Tuesday and Thursday and had a good massage from Tom who specialises in sports injury - so it must have been a shock to work on my flabby body - though I am sure my muscles were as tight as anybody's. On Wednesday, not content with allowing my body to heal slowly, I went to another physio. The centre must have been registered as it is accredited by health funds but I have my doubts about my individual physio. I was pummelled and kneaded like a loaf of bread and came out worse than I went in. When I said he was too rough, my masseur just said that's what deep tissue massage is all about. However, even I know there is no deep tissue between the spine and the skin and he gave that area a good working over. The next day, I couldn't bear to have Tom touch my lower back so that was a bit of a waste. However, my neck and shoulders feel good again and I will be more conscious of my posture as I drive.

OMG!

What the best dressed women wear to the amenities block in the middle of the night! I decided to put my iPad on the charger for a while sometime about midnight. When I saw this vision in the mirror, I was pleased I had my ipad to record the moment.

I was wearing my pale blue night t-shirt. (My van is very warm and that is all I need.) Over it I tied an African print sarong in beautiful shades of blue, red and black, for modesty. In Winter I always wear beds socks, in this case a delightful blend of pink, purple and white stripes. The finishing touch was the hot pink footwear. I chose those crocs deliberately when I bought them so that I would never, ever be tempted to wear them anywhere other than to the toilet in a caravan park. Even then, seeing this elegantly arrayed woman, I have questions about whether they are too avant garde even for a caravan park.

This post is designed to keep me humble - and ensure I never consider taking those crocs anywhere other than camping trips.

People of the Journey - South Australia

SA will be about longer term stays so I expect to meet far more fellow travellers.  In the five days at Southend, I had quite a bit to do with Jackie and Paul, and Susan and Natasha and their kids. Once they left, blown away by the Easter storms, I spent some time with Gay and Evelyn. I was sorry not to have met them earlier.

Langhorne Creek was an interesting place. I found it by accident. Driving past, I realised that it was shady and inviting so put down roots for a couple of days. Near me was a family from Western Australia. I was absolutely impressed by the kids, Jennifer aged 14 and Alexander aged 12. Obviously their parents Debbie and Charles were doing the right thing for the kids to be so advanced. They are on the road for a year. Alexander has been accelerated two school classes and Jennifer is working at year 12 level after spending three months in Italy last year. This year of travel is a great opportunity for the kids – though I imagine there are tensions with two generations in a small caravan for months on end. They seem to be managing well.

I spoke to most of the campers over a couple of days there. On the last morning I had to call for help as my battery was almost flat. I could wind down the windows and clean the windscreen but not turn the engine over. I had some offers of help but Ron and Sue had a power pack which they attached to my battery and I was away. Next time I travel long term, I will have one of those. And perhaps next time I won't run so many things without being attached to a power point.

Monday night I went to a Toastmasters meeting of a club called More than Words. The club had formed initially to support speakers with a stutter or stammer. Since then it has broadened. I was lucky enough to get a Table Topic and to evaluate a speech. The photo shows several members and Fiona who was a guest at the meeting. There were a couple of members that I would love to mentor, long distance by email or phone or uTube. I like their attitude and they have a lot to offer and to gain from Toastmasters. I can’t help myself, can I? I must have a messiah complex. If I am approached, I will do it.

Adriana Michalickova
I don't usually use surnames
but with a name like that.....

This evening I spent a couple of hours talking to Adriana from Slovakia, living and working in Prague. She and her boyfriend are cycling across Australia, from Sydney to Perth in three months. They are a bit behind schedule as she has had to stay in Adelaide for medical problems so they are getting the train on Thursday to Kalgoorlie. From there they will cycle the south west corner and be on a plane home in less than a month from now. Impressive!

In Coffin Bay I had arranged to meet Red Hatter Kay. She left me reeling. Tiny and turbo charged! In her working life, she was in a position where she not only had to be extremely organised but also had to organise a busy business - and that takes hard work. Now in retirement she and her husband Tony are involved with a Uniting Church mission in Mwandi, Zambia. Tony is working there at the moment on a project to bring a safe and healthy water supply to the community. They are working with over 720 orphans  (of an estimated 1500 in the district) and other vulnerable children. The emphasis is on feeding them and providing health care and education. The educational opportunities stretch from primary to tertiary schooling with 8 at university and 12 at college. What a difference that mission is making! It gets support from several countries but it is the people of Port Lincoln area who collect donations and pack goods. When enough is gathered, they pack and send a 40ft container to Zambia with everything from clothes to school material and medical supplies. The variety must be incredible - and the work of packing to use every skerrick of space in the container sounds like a nightmare to organise. I am humbled, Kay.

Tess stood guard, Kay's fearless hunter

I Feel Like a Giant with Petite Kay

Some of the Port Lincoln Red Hatters
Who Welcomed me to Their Meeting

My time in South Australia was cut short so there aren't as many people featured here as I had expected. However, those who are here, provide an example of the diversity of my contacts along the way.

Wine Country

Penola, the town, was a lovely spot, with reminders of the Mary MacKillop story everywhere – the church, the interpretive centre, the park – but Penola, the caravan park, left much to be desired. The three groups who stayed the night were all rather dismayed. The park is old and rundown and caters mainly for permanent and semi-permanent stays. However, as ever, we socialised a bit and shared a happy hour. One couple left before I did and the others about the same time as me. We met up twice along the way – once at the Coonawarra winery and once at the Father Woods Park.

That whole area is part of the Coonawarra wine belt, with a dozen or more wineries one beside the other, all with cellar door sales. I don’t bother much with a drink but thought it would be a sacrilege to pass through and not pay homage to the wine makers. Besides, it is useful to have a couple of drinks available when people stop for a drink. I also make sure I have both tea and coffee. I am a lot more hospitable here than I am at home, where the coffee shops are the easiest places to meet.

I moved north from Penola, stopping for lunch in Keith, mainly to send a postcard to my brother Keith. For a while I checked out camping spots but all were deserted until fairly late in the day when I stayed just shy of Coonalpyn. I was talking to fellow campers there, congratulating ourselves on a good large camping area, well back from the road with a separate section for trucks when a train roared past not more than 20 metres away. Ah well! What can you expect for nothing!

I had lunch today (Saturday) at Tailem Bend in a bakery there. Bakeries seem to be the place to go in SA. Most are very well set up as cafes and do a roaring trade. Claire and Adrian, from the Penola park, had suggested the ferry from Tailem Bend across the river. It is a free cable-drawn vehicular ferry that runs every few minutes 24 hours a day, taking cars to the Fleurieu Peninsula. I am once again camping in a free reserve at Langhome Creek, in the middle of another wine area. I may stay two nights and try to get to a Toastmasters meeting in the city on Monday night.